Yesterday we started the day at Genesis Resort, an eco0tourism resort literally out in the middle of nowhere by the ruins of Ek Balam. A lovely spot, and a great example of everything one can do with a small but not insignificant piece of property. After a healthy breakfast, we headed out to explore the ruins of Ek Balam, truly a lovely site, and we climbed to the top to enjoy the miraculous views, Tanya in more practical shoes, this time... Then on the road to the coast, our destination and current resting place. We had run out of cash, I needed gas, and thankfully Ralph had 250 pesos in his pocket, so we gased up, ignored grumbling bellies and hit the road. If there was money in selling rocks and brush, Ralph thinks there would be a ton of money to be made in the Yucatan. One long winding road looks like the next here, both sides high with brush and trees, only the occasional speeding car keeps the growth from overtaking the road. Our first glimps of the coast was in Dzilam del Bravo, a small fishing village, and from there the road through lagoons and salt flats was accompanied by the occasional town where one could see the results from a hurricane long past. Rebuilding takes time, and money, and desire.
And now we sit in the lap of luxury, taking a day and a half to chill and lounge by the pool and read books and swim in the remarkably warm and boyant Gulf. We meet our friends planes beginning tomorrow. More adventures to come!
I should mention the wind. At precisely 5 to one in the afternoon, someone opened the door and let the wind in! What a change... from a still, hot morning to a hold onto your drink afternoon. This will take some getting used to!
Friday, May 4, 2007
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
Que Bueno
Hola!
Ralph and I are sitting in Valladolid, having just visited the local cenote and wanted to check in with everyone. We are having a truly lovely time, I think balancing adventure with rest. This morning asçt Hacienda Chalante we went horseback riding before breakfast, then sat on the patio and Ralph had what he terms his ¨Morning Cigar¨while I flipped through a cookbook I brought fantasizing about cooking at the beach house next week.
We continue to comment about the heat. It is sometimes lovely, sometimes oppressive, sometimes just there. The brain eventually moves beyond, but by 3ish I am ready for a dip in a pool, any pool, please tell me where I can find a pool! Merida I miss already, its bustling streets, crazy traffic (who knew the buses could go that fast) and our oasis of a hotel there, where we would stumble back in during the late afternoon for Ralph´s ¨Afternoon Cigar¨and my nap and dip in the pool before heading out to dinner.
We climbed our first Mayan pyramid yesterday in Ixmal, and I had practical mexican shoes on (read: heals). Ralph laughed, shook his head and mentioned something about never knowing when you need to salsa. I made it up and back without incident, though! Hurray for me!
Ralph and I are sitting in Valladolid, having just visited the local cenote and wanted to check in with everyone. We are having a truly lovely time, I think balancing adventure with rest. This morning asçt Hacienda Chalante we went horseback riding before breakfast, then sat on the patio and Ralph had what he terms his ¨Morning Cigar¨while I flipped through a cookbook I brought fantasizing about cooking at the beach house next week.
We continue to comment about the heat. It is sometimes lovely, sometimes oppressive, sometimes just there. The brain eventually moves beyond, but by 3ish I am ready for a dip in a pool, any pool, please tell me where I can find a pool! Merida I miss already, its bustling streets, crazy traffic (who knew the buses could go that fast) and our oasis of a hotel there, where we would stumble back in during the late afternoon for Ralph´s ¨Afternoon Cigar¨and my nap and dip in the pool before heading out to dinner.
We climbed our first Mayan pyramid yesterday in Ixmal, and I had practical mexican shoes on (read: heals). Ralph laughed, shook his head and mentioned something about never knowing when you need to salsa. I made it up and back without incident, though! Hurray for me!
Thursday, April 5, 2007
A more authentic Flamingo trip...
If you are looking to do something different, something the whole world has not done yet, and you have already visited Mayan ruins, Merida's Centro Historico, and the downtown market, the coast of the Gulf of Mexico should be your next stop.
San Crisanto, a beautiful coastal village 18 miles east of Progreso is a place where there are very few tourists, no lines, no buses and only the noise of the ocean, the wind and the sea gulls.
A visit to San Crisanto now offers the mangroves swamps of the Yucatan, the gulf waters, the cenotes, the fresh water springs, and all the beautiful birds. With machetes miles of trails through the mangrove forests have been cut out , connecting crystal clear cenotes. Until now, only one of these cenotes has been open to the public. Paddling quietly through these light-dappled groves is like traveling through a tropical Venice. You and your friends and family can relax and enjoy the songs of the birds and the sights of the beautiful surroundings while your gondolero poles quietly through the shallow canals.
After about 25 minutes of pleasant travel through the mangrove groves, you will get to a cenote where you will stop for a swim, and maybe even a swing on the vines hanging over the water. The natural habitat of the Yucatan is a site not to be forgotten.
San Crisanto, a beautiful coastal village 18 miles east of Progreso is a place where there are very few tourists, no lines, no buses and only the noise of the ocean, the wind and the sea gulls.
A visit to San Crisanto now offers the mangroves swamps of the Yucatan, the gulf waters, the cenotes, the fresh water springs, and all the beautiful birds. With machetes miles of trails through the mangrove forests have been cut out , connecting crystal clear cenotes. Until now, only one of these cenotes has been open to the public. Paddling quietly through these light-dappled groves is like traveling through a tropical Venice. You and your friends and family can relax and enjoy the songs of the birds and the sights of the beautiful surroundings while your gondolero poles quietly through the shallow canals.
After about 25 minutes of pleasant travel through the mangrove groves, you will get to a cenote where you will stop for a swim, and maybe even a swing on the vines hanging over the water. The natural habitat of the Yucatan is a site not to be forgotten.
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
Cooking, anyone?
Hello Amigos!
Peter, one of the Mexico Gang, and I are entertaining doing a mini cooking class on the Thursday morning of the first week. We were wondering if anyone else was interested? Below is a description of the half day, which includes lunch, and the website link to it is above. Let me know if you are interested. Cost is about 150$ p.p.
From the website:
YUCATAN EXPRESS Created by popular demand, the Yucatán Express is ideal for those who have a tight travel itinerary that doesn't allow for attendance at a regular public class - or for those who would simply rather eat than cook! This overview class includes a thorough explanation of the culinary history of Yucatán, as well as a trip to Mérida's ever-fascinating market. We end the experience with lunch at a typical regional restaurant, where Chef Sterling will help you navigate the menu and order a broad sampling of Yucatecan specialties.9:00 AM - 2:00 PM*. MINIMUM CLASS SIZE: 2
THE RESTAURANT WE REGULARLY VISIT IS HACIENDA TEYA. Located on the Cancun highway on the outskirts of the city, this restored 19th century hacienda is renowned for the Yucatán's most authentic and expertly prepared cuisine. A trip to the hacienda for a meal is never a disappointment. Sample regional specialties, such as Pan de Cazon ("shark pie"); Queso Relleno (a Gouda cheese stuffed with spiced meat); and the hacienda's memorable Papadzules (egg-stuffed tortillas bathed in a pumpkin seed sauce). Chef Sterling will help you order, and will explain every item on the menu. We'll make certain that we order several dishes, including appetizers and main courses, so that you experience the full range of Yucatecan flavors.
Peter, one of the Mexico Gang, and I are entertaining doing a mini cooking class on the Thursday morning of the first week. We were wondering if anyone else was interested? Below is a description of the half day, which includes lunch, and the website link to it is above. Let me know if you are interested. Cost is about 150$ p.p.
From the website:
YUCATAN EXPRESS Created by popular demand, the Yucatán Express is ideal for those who have a tight travel itinerary that doesn't allow for attendance at a regular public class - or for those who would simply rather eat than cook! This overview class includes a thorough explanation of the culinary history of Yucatán, as well as a trip to Mérida's ever-fascinating market. We end the experience with lunch at a typical regional restaurant, where Chef Sterling will help you navigate the menu and order a broad sampling of Yucatecan specialties.9:00 AM - 2:00 PM*. MINIMUM CLASS SIZE: 2
THE RESTAURANT WE REGULARLY VISIT IS HACIENDA TEYA. Located on the Cancun highway on the outskirts of the city, this restored 19th century hacienda is renowned for the Yucatán's most authentic and expertly prepared cuisine. A trip to the hacienda for a meal is never a disappointment. Sample regional specialties, such as Pan de Cazon ("shark pie"); Queso Relleno (a Gouda cheese stuffed with spiced meat); and the hacienda's memorable Papadzules (egg-stuffed tortillas bathed in a pumpkin seed sauce). Chef Sterling will help you order, and will explain every item on the menu. We'll make certain that we order several dishes, including appetizers and main courses, so that you experience the full range of Yucatecan flavors.
Chicxulub
Pronounced (cheek-shoo-LOOB), this is the closest village to our beach house. Super famous for a giant crater that crashed into the Yucatan about 65 million years ago, Chixulub is the epicentre of this crash. Try Googling the town name and read up on some of the hypothesis about how this crater changed Earth. Some say it is what killed the dinosaurs, others say not a chance.
Although I'm sure our time in Chixulub will not have quite the same impact globally, I'm also sure memories to last a lifetime will be made!
Although I'm sure our time in Chixulub will not have quite the same impact globally, I'm also sure memories to last a lifetime will be made!
Sunday, April 1, 2007
The Beach House
This place, friends, is worth the trip all on its own! Check out more pictures at www.casadogre.shutterfly.com
Cuzama - are you up for the adventure?
This antique wooden buggy type cart pulled by the horse is the mode of transportation used on the almost-famous "Cuzama cenote trip." Traveling through the lush sisal plantations of the Yucatan with three wonderful refreshing cenotes as the goal of the trip, this day trip is something truly unique that you can do while visitng the Yucatan Peninsula.
The goal of this trip is to relax, enjoy the peace of the Yucatan countryside, and have a refreshing swim in three different cenotes...a perfect trip for a hot day! The first cenote, Chelentun (Chay-len-TOON), has the easiest access. The cement stairs and handrail make it easy to go down for a swim in the crystal clear water. After a swim and some photography, it is time to head back up 
the stairs, back onto the truck and on to the next cenote. This cenote, Chansinic'che (Chahn-seen-eek-CHAY), is a bit harder to get into. The first thing you will find is a hole in the ground and a ladder made out of the railroad tracks. Descend the ladder for about 10 meters or 30 feet and you are in another transparent cenote for another refreshing swim. The next and last cenote is Bolonchoojol (Bow-lawn-chew-HOLE). This impressive cenote is the subject of MANY pictures used for publicity on cenotes in the Yucatan. The entrance is also a hole in the ground with a railroad tie ladder. The hole looks narrow but once you get down, you will find yourself in a huge, well-lit cavern with the crystal clear blue toned water of the cenote. In the middle of the cenote the stalactites have formed what looks like a huge tree. Enjoy your swim here and don't forget those photographs!
the stairs, back onto the truck and on to the next cenote. This cenote, Chansinic'che (Chahn-seen-eek-CHAY), is a bit harder to get into. The first thing you will find is a hole in the ground and a ladder made out of the railroad tracks. Descend the ladder for about 10 meters or 30 feet and you are in another transparent cenote for another refreshing swim. The next and last cenote is Bolonchoojol (Bow-lawn-chew-HOLE). This impressive cenote is the subject of MANY pictures used for publicity on cenotes in the Yucatan. The entrance is also a hole in the ground with a railroad tie ladder. The hole looks narrow but once you get down, you will find yourself in a huge, well-lit cavern with the crystal clear blue toned water of the cenote. In the middle of the cenote the stalactites have formed what looks like a huge tree. Enjoy your swim here and don't forget those photographs! Chichen Itza
The famous Mayan pyramids of Chichen-Itza are over 1500 years old and are located only 75 miles from Merida. The name Chichen-Itza is a Mayan word: CHI (mouth) CHEN (well) and ITZA (of the Itza tribe). Some believe people were occasionally thrown into the nearby cenote as sacrifices, and those who survived were believed to be seers.The site is divided into three sections. The North grouping of structures is distinctly Toltec in style. The central group appears to be from the early period. The southern group is known as "The Old Chichen." All three can be seen comfortably in one day.
Just beyond El Castillo you will find a large ball court where Mayan men played a game called pok ta pok. Anthropologists believe that the object of the game was to hurl a ball through a ring that was mounted on a wall, seven meters above the ground. Each team had six field players who would attempt to pass the ball - using any body part except their hands - to their captain who would attempt the shot using a racket of sorts. The captain of the team that made the first successful shot was then decapitated as a sacrifice to the gods. This was seen as an honor and guaranteed entrance into heaven.
There is a certain mystical energy about the ball court that begs to be experienced first-hand. One fact worth noting is the repetition of the number seven, which was sacred to the Mayans. There were seven players on a team, the rings were seven meters high and if you clap your hands or shout in the court, the sound will echo exactly seven times. There are carvings on the stone walls that depict the ball players (some of which are remarkably intact) and after the captain is beheaded, seven serpents grow out of his neck.
But the true mystery behind the ball court at Chichen-Itza is the Mayan prophecy that on Dec. 22, 2012, the great warrior serpent Kukulkán will rise from the ground beneath the playing field and end the world for good. Even if you're not one to believe in predictions, it's still exhilarating and eerie to stand in the middle of the court, close your eyes and imagine.
It is recommended that you bring a hat. Please note it is no longer possible to climb the ruins.
Side Trips - Overview
Well, planning side trips has been difficult, this area has so much to offer! Here is currently what I am considering as a loose plan:
- Saturday May 5th: For those arriving Saturday, there will be Cinco de Mayo (5th of May) celebrations most likely taking place in Merida proper. We'll run everyone arriving at 6ish to the beach house, and those of you interested in coming back into Merida for some dancing and festivities can come along. Second pick up in Merida is at 9, and the folks arriving at that time will have the same option.
- Sunday: Sunday is a great day for family, friends and markets in Merida, so we will again be heading into town, Ralph and I have one airport pickup at 2. Sunday will be a great day for picking up food and stuff for the week, so expect shopping, maybe a concert or two, most likely a stop at the local Wal-Mart and Costco.
- Monday: Beach, maybe go check out Progreso or Chixulub
- Tuesday: Chichen Itza & Tequila distillery tour
- Wednesday: Beach
- Thursday: Horse Cart and Cenote trip
- Friday: Flamingos in the early morning, Beach, cocktail party
- Saturday: Possible cooking school half day, shopping in Merida, walking around in Progreso, evening in Merida, possibly out for dinner in town
- Sunday: Merida
- Monday: Ek Balam
- Tuesday: Beach
- Wednesday: Izmal, cenote and horseback riding
- Thursday: Beach
- Friday: Tanya leaves, rest of gang can decide what tickles their fancy: Xcambo, caves at Calcehtok, so many choices! Last dinner at the beach house!
- Saturday: Get in that last bit of beach, pack and head to Merida, check in to Hotel Dolores Alba - Sunday: Homeward Bound
Where exactly in Mexico are we going?
Excellent question! Notice the area in green on this little map? If you go straight up from the interior Belize border and a little tiny bit to your left, there you would find Progreso, a little ride down the road from where the beach house is located. Inland from this about 30 miles is Merida, the city we are flying in to.
Are your friends asking you if it is near Cancun? Or maybe near the Mayan Riviera? Smile and say it's about a three hour drive away, and that you'll show then pictures when you get home!
Thursday, January 4, 2007
Invitation to Funness
As many of you know, Ralph and I have a dream of "retiring" to Mexico. In July 2006 we spent some time in Oaxaca, and although a strong contender, we also went to check out the areas in and around Merida and Progresso, on the Gulf Coast, and we'd like to bring along a few friends... So, consider this...
In ten years, sitting under a palm tree sipping a refresco and watching the scenery, do you want to say to your fellow lounger, "you know, I was one of the first that joined Tanya & Ralph in Mexico, before they bought this place and settled down here and opened their B&B... Yup, seems like just yesterday we were in that great rental place on the beach in Progresso, walking the Malecon (boardwalk in Progresso), jumping in the van and going to check out tequila factories and Mayan ruins like Uxmal and Cichen Itza, horseback riding to cenotes (underground fresh water pools that you can swim in) and checking out the Flamingo Sanctuary. I remember the market in Progresso where we bought all our food to cook at the house, and walking into town for dinner occasonally when the mood struck us, and playing in the sand and sun... great memories!"
Ralph and I are going to Mexico from April 28th to May 19th, and you are welcome to join us from May 5th to May 19th. Anytime during those two weeks.
What you need to know:
We will be renting a house (or houses, depending on numbers) on the beach in Progresso, accommodations will cost approximately 250$CDN per week (final price depends on final #s).
Flights to Merida (clostest airport to Progresso) from Toronto are about 1000$ CDN, from Buffalo about 650$CDN, taxes included. Ralph and I are going to fly from Buffalo. We will arrange transportation to Buffalo if enough people are interested in flying from there on the same day, and we will pick you up in Merida and bring you to our home base in Progresso.
Eating in Mexico is inexensive, and we will have kitchens in the house, which means we get to go to the market and supermercado to buy groceries to cook.
Side trips are extra, not yet sure of the cost as it depends on numbers and what vehicle size we will need. More details to follow, but side trips to Merida, Ixamal, Valladolid, Flamingo Santuary, and two Mayan ruins and tequila distillery are in the works. Most likely a trip every second or third day, so I can work on my tan in between trips...
There is a strong possibility that we will also be offering some yoga classes while we are there as a friend who is joining us is a certified instructor and my personal teacher, and has agreed to lead us in some sun salutations in the sand looking out to sea before her morning pina colada. Details to follow on this.
Ralph and I are pretty casual about comings and goings while on vacation. Join us for the company and do nothing but sit on the beach, or come down and arrange your own trips and rent your own cars, we'll enjoy your company and adventure stories either way!
What we need to know:
Interested? Send me an email with YES! Count me in! and I'll let you know about flight details, transportation, and adventures in the next few weeks. Please let me know if you are IN! as well as your accommodation requirements (1 room, 1 bed, 1 room, 2 beds, hammock, etc.) by February 1st so I can book the appropriate number of houses.
Looking forward to your company, amigos, as we explore this side of Mexico together.
Tanita y Rafael
xo
p.s. Check out this link for an idea of accommodations: http://www.jensyucatan.com/eng_standard.php?id=1272&offered=rent
and click here for an idea of what Progresso and the area in general has to offer us:
http://www.yucatantoday.com/destinations/eng-progreso.htm
In ten years, sitting under a palm tree sipping a refresco and watching the scenery, do you want to say to your fellow lounger, "you know, I was one of the first that joined Tanya & Ralph in Mexico, before they bought this place and settled down here and opened their B&B... Yup, seems like just yesterday we were in that great rental place on the beach in Progresso, walking the Malecon (boardwalk in Progresso), jumping in the van and going to check out tequila factories and Mayan ruins like Uxmal and Cichen Itza, horseback riding to cenotes (underground fresh water pools that you can swim in) and checking out the Flamingo Sanctuary. I remember the market in Progresso where we bought all our food to cook at the house, and walking into town for dinner occasonally when the mood struck us, and playing in the sand and sun... great memories!"
Ralph and I are going to Mexico from April 28th to May 19th, and you are welcome to join us from May 5th to May 19th. Anytime during those two weeks.
What you need to know:
We will be renting a house (or houses, depending on numbers) on the beach in Progresso, accommodations will cost approximately 250$CDN per week (final price depends on final #s).
Flights to Merida (clostest airport to Progresso) from Toronto are about 1000$ CDN, from Buffalo about 650$CDN, taxes included. Ralph and I are going to fly from Buffalo. We will arrange transportation to Buffalo if enough people are interested in flying from there on the same day, and we will pick you up in Merida and bring you to our home base in Progresso.
Eating in Mexico is inexensive, and we will have kitchens in the house, which means we get to go to the market and supermercado to buy groceries to cook.
Side trips are extra, not yet sure of the cost as it depends on numbers and what vehicle size we will need. More details to follow, but side trips to Merida, Ixamal, Valladolid, Flamingo Santuary, and two Mayan ruins and tequila distillery are in the works. Most likely a trip every second or third day, so I can work on my tan in between trips...
There is a strong possibility that we will also be offering some yoga classes while we are there as a friend who is joining us is a certified instructor and my personal teacher, and has agreed to lead us in some sun salutations in the sand looking out to sea before her morning pina colada. Details to follow on this.
Ralph and I are pretty casual about comings and goings while on vacation. Join us for the company and do nothing but sit on the beach, or come down and arrange your own trips and rent your own cars, we'll enjoy your company and adventure stories either way!
What we need to know:
Interested? Send me an email with YES! Count me in! and I'll let you know about flight details, transportation, and adventures in the next few weeks. Please let me know if you are IN! as well as your accommodation requirements (1 room, 1 bed, 1 room, 2 beds, hammock, etc.) by February 1st so I can book the appropriate number of houses.
Looking forward to your company, amigos, as we explore this side of Mexico together.
Tanita y Rafael
xo
p.s. Check out this link for an idea of accommodations: http://www.jensyucatan.com/eng_standard.php?id=1272&offered=rent
and click here for an idea of what Progresso and the area in general has to offer us:
http://www.yucatantoday.com/destinations/eng-progreso.htm
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)